Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers
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Fryer 2017 Differences in forearm ...
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Authors
Fryer, SimonStone, Keeron
Sveen, Joakim
Dickson, Tabitha
España-Romero, Vanesa
Giles, David
Baláš, Jiří
Stoner, Lee
Draper, Nick
Affiliation
University of GloucestershireEdinburgh Napier University
University of Cadiz
University of Derby
Charles University
University of North Carolina
University of Canterbury
Issue Date
2017-07-28
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This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (mV̇O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force–time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2–14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = −1.166, 95% CI (−3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = −1.120, 95% CI (−3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114–3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553–2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or mV̇O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.Citation
Fryer, S. et al (2017) 'Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers', European Journal of Sport Science, 17 (9):1177Publisher
Taylor and FrancisJournal
European Journal of Sport ScienceDOI
10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135Additional Links
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135Type
ArticleLanguage
enISSN
17461391EISSN
15367290ae974a485f413a2113503eed53cd6c53
10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135
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