Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
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Fryer 2016 Hemodynamic and ...
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Authors
Fryer, SimonGiles, David

Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido
Puerta, Alejandro de la O
Romero, Vanesa España
Affiliation
University of GloucestershireUniversity of Derby
Centro de Investigaciones Energéticas, Medioambientales y Tecnológicas
University of Granada
University of Cádiz,
Issue Date
2018-12-01
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Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock climbing performance.Citation
Fryer, S. et al (2017) 'Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance', Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, DOI: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860Publisher
Wolters KluwerJournal
Journal of Strength and Conditioning ResearchDOI
10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860Additional Links
https://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/fulltext/2018/12000/Hemodynamic_and_Cardiorespiratory_Predictors_of.29.aspxType
ArticleLanguage
enISSN
10648011ae974a485f413a2113503eed53cd6c53
10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860
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