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dc.contributor.authorGiles, David
dc.contributor.authorEspaña-Romero, Vanesa
dc.contributor.authorGarrido, Inmaculada
dc.contributor.authorde la O Puerta, Alex
dc.contributor.authorStone, Keeron
dc.contributor.authorFryer, Simon
dc.date.accessioned2016-11-25T10:02:09Z
dc.date.available2016-11-25T10:02:09Z
dc.date.issued2016-08-24
dc.identifier.citationGiles, D. (2016) 'Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Non-Dominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers', International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 12 (1) , pp. 137-139. doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651en
dc.identifier.issn1555-0265
dc.identifier.doi10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10545/621060
dc.description.abstractPurpose. This study examined differences in oxygenation kinetics in the non-dominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. Methods. Participants consisted of 28 sport climbers with a range of on-sight abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t½ recovery) of the tissue saturation index (TSI) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results. A 2-way mixed model ANOVA found a non-significant interaction (p =0.112) for TSI x sex. However, there was a significant the main effect (p =0.027) handedness (dominant vs. non-dominant FDP). The dominant forearm recovered 13.6% quicker (t½ recovery mean difference = 1.12 sec, 95% CI 0.13 to 2.10 sec) compared to the non-dominant FDP. This was not affected by 6-month on-sight climbing ability or sex (p =0.839, p =0.683). Conclusions. Significant intra-individual differences in oxygenation kinetics of the FDP were found. Improvements in oxygenation kinetics within the FDP are likely due to the abilities of the muscle to deliver, perfuse and consume oxygen. These enhancements may be due to structural adaptations in the microvasculature such as an increase in capillary density and an enhanced improvement in capillary filtration.
dc.language.isoenen
dc.publisherHuman Kineticsen
dc.relation.urlhttp://journals.humankinetics.com/doi/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651en
dc.relation.urlhttp://journals.humankinetics.com/journal/ijsppen
dc.rightsArchived with thanks to International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performanceen
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/en
dc.subjectRock climbingen
dc.subjectAsymmetryen
dc.subjectHandednessen
dc.subjectOxygenation kineticsen
dc.subjectNear infrared spectroscopyen
dc.titleDifferences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbersen
dc.typeArticleen
dc.identifier.eissn1555-0273
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Derbyen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Cadizen
dc.contributor.departmentAndalusian Mountain Federationen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Granadaen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Gloucestershireen
dc.identifier.journalInternational Journal of Sports Physiology and Performanceen
dcterms.dateAccepted2016-04-03
refterms.dateFOA2019-02-28T15:03:29Z
html.description.abstractPurpose. This study examined differences in oxygenation kinetics in the non-dominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. Methods. Participants consisted of 28 sport climbers with a range of on-sight abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t½ recovery) of the tissue saturation index (TSI) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results. A 2-way mixed model ANOVA found a non-significant interaction (p =0.112) for TSI x sex. However, there was a significant the main effect (p =0.027) handedness (dominant vs. non-dominant FDP). The dominant forearm recovered 13.6% quicker (t½ recovery mean difference = 1.12 sec, 95% CI 0.13 to 2.10 sec) compared to the non-dominant FDP. This was not affected by 6-month on-sight climbing ability or sex (p =0.839, p =0.683). Conclusions. Significant intra-individual differences in oxygenation kinetics of the FDP were found. Improvements in oxygenation kinetics within the FDP are likely due to the abilities of the muscle to deliver, perfuse and consume oxygen. These enhancements may be due to structural adaptations in the microvasculature such as an increase in capillary density and an enhanced improvement in capillary filtration.


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