Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Hdl Handle:
http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621136
Title:
Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers
Authors:
Baláš, Jiří; Michailov, Michail; Giles, David ( 0000-0002-5590-5734 ) ; Kodejška, Jan; Panáčková, Michaela; Fryer, Simon
Abstract:
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P < .05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.
Affiliation:
The University of Derby
Citation:
Balas, J. et al (2015) 'Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers', European Journal of Sport Science, 16 (7):764
Publisher:
Taylor and Francis
Journal:
European Journal of Sport Science
Issue Date:
2015
URI:
http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621136
DOI:
10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
Additional Links:
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
Type:
Article
Language:
en
ISSN:
1746-1391
EISSN:
1536-7290
Appears in Collections:
School of Human Sciences

Full metadata record

DC FieldValue Language
dc.contributor.authorBaláš, Jiříen
dc.contributor.authorMichailov, Michailen
dc.contributor.authorGiles, Daviden
dc.contributor.authorKodejška, Janen
dc.contributor.authorPanáčková, Michaelaen
dc.contributor.authorFryer, Simonen
dc.date.accessioned2016-12-09T10:29:49Z-
dc.date.available2016-12-09T10:29:49Z-
dc.date.issued2015-
dc.identifier.citationBalas, J. et al (2015) 'Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers', European Journal of Sport Science, 16 (7):764en
dc.identifier.issn1746-1391-
dc.identifier.doi10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198-
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10545/621136-
dc.description.abstractThis study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P < .05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.en
dc.language.isoenen
dc.publisherTaylor and Francisen
dc.relation.urlhttp://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198en
dc.rightsArchived with thanks to European Journal of Sport Scienceen
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/en
dc.subjectSport climbingen
dc.subjectBoulderingen
dc.subjectOxygenationen
dc.subjectForearmsen
dc.subjectSpectroscopyen
dc.titleActive recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbersen
dc.typeArticleen
dc.identifier.eissn1536-7290-
dc.contributor.departmentThe University of Derbyen
dc.identifier.journalEuropean Journal of Sport Scienceen
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