Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance

Hdl Handle:
http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621876
Title:
Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
Authors:
Fryer, Simon; Giles, David ( 0000-0002-5590-5734 ) ; Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido; Puerta, Alejandro de la O; Romero, Vanesa España
Abstract:
Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock climbing performance.
Affiliation:
University of Gloucestershire; University of Derby; Centro de Investigaciones Energéticas, Medioambientales y Tecnológicas; University of Granada; University of Cádiz,
Citation:
Fryer, S. et al (2017) 'Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance', Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, DOI: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860
Publisher:
Wolters Kluwer
Journal:
Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
Issue Date:
13-Mar-2017
URI:
http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621876
DOI:
10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860
Additional Links:
http://Insights.ovid.com/crossref?an=00124278-900000000-96072
Type:
Article
Language:
en
ISSN:
10648011
Sponsors:
N/A
Appears in Collections:
Department of Life Sciences

Full metadata record

DC FieldValue Language
dc.contributor.authorFryer, Simonen
dc.contributor.authorGiles, Daviden
dc.contributor.authorPalomino, Inmaculada Garridoen
dc.contributor.authorPuerta, Alejandro de la Oen
dc.contributor.authorRomero, Vanesa Españaen
dc.date.accessioned2017-10-04T11:46:29Z-
dc.date.available2017-10-04T11:46:29Z-
dc.date.issued2017-03-13-
dc.identifier.citationFryer, S. et al (2017) 'Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance', Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, DOI: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860en
dc.identifier.issn10648011-
dc.identifier.doi10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860-
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10545/621876-
dc.description.abstractRock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock climbing performance.en
dc.description.sponsorshipN/Aen
dc.language.isoenen
dc.publisherWolters Kluweren
dc.relation.urlhttp://Insights.ovid.com/crossref?an=00124278-900000000-96072en
dc.rightsArchived with thanks to Journal of Strength and Conditioning Researchen
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/*
dc.subjectOxidative capacityen
dc.subjectMicrovascular adaptationen
dc.subjectNear infrared spectroscopyen
dc.titleHemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performanceen
dc.typeArticleen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Gloucestershireen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Derbyen
dc.contributor.departmentCentro de Investigaciones Energéticas, Medioambientales y Tecnológicasen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Granadaen
dc.contributor.departmentUniversity of Cádiz,en
dc.identifier.journalJournal of Strength and Conditioning Researchen
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